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Hoof Care Page
The number one concern a horse owner should have is a good
farrier. The second concern a horse owner should have
is a good veterinarian. This section deals with locating
and keeping a good farrier.
"I already have a good farrier!"
How do you know you have a good farrier? Many lameness
problems that are the result of poor farriery take months to
show. By then, you may not even realize the problem is the
result of something the farrier did. Who is going to tell
you that it is...the farrier? The farrier is likely to be
the only other person besides yourself that pays close
attention to your horse's feet. Some basic knowledge can
help you and possibly save your horse.
Angles
For the most part, a horse's hooves should be at a certain angle. You can pick up a gage that is relatively
inexpensive in many places that sell farrier supplies. Just ask the store clerk if they sell hoof gages. I prefer the
brass one that is shaped like a horse shoe and has a pointer on it with the gage in between. All I have to do is pick
up a hoof, place the horse shoe shaped part of the gage on the bottom of my horse's hoof and press the pointy thing
against the hoof wall, then read the gage to see the degree. The usual (not universal) degrees are: front: 52
hind: 54. It is true that one way to spot whether or not the hooves are level is to look at the
hairline at the coronary band. This is where the hair on the foot stops because the hoof starts. This will work,
but it will not tell you if the angle is correct. If the angle is not correct, it causes the tendon to stretch in a
way (too much or too little) than it was designed to do. This is something that takes a period of time to show damage
to. One way that such damage can be spotted is by looking at the hoof from the side and touching it. If the hoof is
not exactly straight from the coronary band all the way down to the tip of the toe, if it has a ridge in it where it
grows at one angle and then from the ridge down, grows at a slightly different angle, that is visible evidence of
changing the angle of the hoof. This also results when the horse is allowed to grow a toe that is too long.
Founder
Founder is a common problem and if caught in time, its' effects can be somewhat reversed. Most of the time,
corrective shoeing is called for to reduce the pain level. The bone closest to the ground in a horse's hoof is
triangular shaped, much like the hoof itself. When founder occurs, this bone usually rotates so that a tip of it faces
downward, into the sole. If your toe is broken, you are going to walk on your heel as much as possible. It is the
same for the horse. The toe area becomes painful to bear weight on, so the horse bears as much of it's weight as it
can on it's heel. It is often said that a horse has 5 hearts. This refers to the the heart that is within the
chest cavity and each of the 4 frogs. The frog is the long, soft, triangular shaped piece in the center of the bottom of
the hoof. The area around the frog is indented. This indention is deeper toward the heel and shallow toward the
toe area. This indented area is called the "bars" of the hoof. When a horse walks or runs, the frog is depressed
against the bars, which pushes blood through the sole and out to the white line area. When a horse bears most of it's
weight on the heel, the frog pushes against the bars too much and too often, which spreads them out and keeps them
from doing their job - supplying an adequate blood supply to the sole. The idea behind corrective shoeing for founder is
to keep the bars from being pushed out of position and to alleviate pressure on the toe.
One way to tell if you need a new farrier is this: We cannot see the exact degree of rotation within the hoof. Your farrier should ask you for
radiographs (X-rays) of the hoof before attempting corrective shoeing. If your farrier is willing to guess,
get a new farrier. More harm can be inflicted by the wrong kind of corrective shoeing. Sometimes, no shoeing at all
is best, but who can know without getting a look at what is going on inside the hoof?
"My horse's feet look great, but his shoes don't stay on!"
Shoes should stay on for at least 6 weeks under normal conditions. Mud can pull them off, as can some other
things. The nails should be high in the hoof, and bent over
in order to secure them. The foot and the shoe may look great when the farrier finishes, but if the shoes don't stay
on, and there is no discernable reason why not, you need a new farrier.
Now that I've told you why to get a new farrier, I'll tell
you how to keep the good one you already have.
Remember your appointments.
Time is money to your farrier.
Train your horse to stand. Your farrier is self employed. He/she may or may not have disability insurance. Your horse
is not the only horse your farrier takes care of. If he/she gets hurt and cannot work, how many other horses will be
without care? How many other horse owners will be suddenly in need of a replacement farrier? How many of those who
find a replacement farrier will stick with the replacement farrier (your farrier can lose business permanently). If
your horse will not stand quietly for your farrier, you can train him very easily by longeing him. Pick his feet up
yourself. Hold them up for a long time. Tap on them with a small hammer or heavy hoof pick to simulate the striking of
a shoe being hammered on. If he doesn't cooperate fully, immediately longe him (exercise him at a run or trot on a
very, very long, specially made lead rope available at any tack shop). Stop him & immediately ask him to give his foot
up again. If he gives you any trouble, go right back to longeing him. The idea is to get him to associate holding
his foot up with resting. Be mindful of hot weather, the overweight horse, or exhaustion. This training takes about
two weeks, so don't expect an immediate "cure" after the first session.
Provide a shady area for your farrier to work in during the
summer and a warm area for him/her to work in during the
winter. Don't forget, hooves still grow during winter
months. Fingers and metal tools get cold, but your farrier
still has a family to support. You won't be doing him any
favors by not calling him out in order to spare him from the
cold, and you won't be doing your horse any favor that way,
either.
Listen to your farrier.
Many horse owners think they know
more than their farriers. While this is always a
possibility, as a horse owner, it can get you and your horse
into trouble. If you and your farrier disagree on how to go
about something, consult your veterinarian and do some
online research yourself. If you are going to be a
know-it-all, make sure that you really do know what you
think you know. Do not hesitate to tell your farrier that
you disagree with him/her. Listen to his/her reason for
doing what he/she is doing. Find out where his/her source
of knowledge comes from and go from there. Your farrier
will be happy that you respect him/her enough to give
him/her a chance to explain themselves.
Pay on time.
Do not call the farrier out and then tell him/her after the
job is done that you left your checkbook in your other
pocket or that your dog ate it. You wouldn't want that to
be done to you when you go to pick up your paycheck, would
you? Word can travel fast about a client who doesn't pay.
The relationship between the farrier and the horse owner is
a two way street. Appreciate the good ones and send the bad
ones down the road, this is what your farrier does with
his/her clients.
If you have a good farrier, tell us about him or her. Why
do you think he/she is good? We will be happy to post
contact information so that horse owners in your area who
are looking for a good farrier can find him/her.
Just drop us a line.
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